Prague is pretty.
Pretty isn’t a word you can use to describe every city, but it fits perfectly with Prague. It’s one of the prettiest cities we’ve ever seen.
Prague is so pretty in fact, that it almost doesn’t seem real. Walking around the Old Town, it feels like you’re in a fairy tale with castles, astronomical clocks, gargoyles, and four-wheeled chariots. It feels a bit like Disneyland minus the rides, and with overflowing beer.
Spending most of your time in the town square drinking the world’s best pilsner is a perfectly acceptable thing to do in Prague. Heck, a few people in our group did just that!
But if you’re a first-time visitor and want a more well-rounded experience, then this detailed itinerary will give you suggestions on how to spend the perfect three days in Prague.
WHAT TO DO IN PRAGUE IN 3 DAYS
Listed below are Prague’s top attractions and a few recommended places to eat. You can jump to the location map at the bottom of this post to see exactly where they are in the city.
Prague has a great public transportation system so getting around shouldn’t be a problem. I enjoy walking so I prefer exploring on my own, but if you’d rather experience Prague on a guided tour, then there are a few you can choose from on Get Your Guide or Klook.
| DAY ONE|
• Jewish Quarter
• Franz Kafka Monument
• Krcma (lunch)
• Municipal Library of Prague
• Old Town
• Astronomical Clock
• Man Hanging Out
• Franz Kafka’s Head
• Dancing House
• U Parlamentu (dinner)
• Absintherie (drinks)
| DAY TWO|
• Namesti Miru (Tram 22)
• Cafe Savoy (breakfast)
• Prague Castle
• St. Vitus Cathedral
• Golden Lane
• Waldstein Garden
• U Tri jelinku (lunch)
• Infant Jesus of Prague
• John Lennon Wall
• The Narrowest Street in Prague
• Franza Kafka Museum
• Charles Bridge
• U Kunstatu (dinner and beer flights)
| DAY THREE|
• David Cerny DIY Tour or Day Trip
Josefov (Jewish Quarter)
Josefov refers to the Jewish Quarter, a neighborhood located within Stare Mesto (Old Town). It’s one of the most visited areas in Prague and where you’ll find six synagogues, the Jewish Ceremonial Hall, and the Old Jewish Cemetery (pictured below).
According to Wikipedia, the Nazis often destroyed Jewish cemeteries but Hitler saved this one because he intended it to be part of a museum dedicated to the lost Jewish race.
I explored the Jewish Quarter on my own but I probably would have appreciated it more on a guided tour. It would have been nice to learn more about its history. You can book a Jewish Quarter tour with Get Your Guide (Option 1 | Option 2 | Option 3) or Klook.
Statue of Franz Kafka
Franz Kafka is a Bohemian novelist recognized as one of the most influential figures in 20th century literature. He was born in Prague so you’ll find many monuments erected in his honor throughout the city.
Kafka was known for blending fantasy with reality in his work, his surrealistic style of writing often serving as an inspiration for many of these memorials. This “Statue of Franz Kafka” by Jaroslav Rona is one example.
Located on Vezenska Street in the Jewish Quarter, it depicts the author riding on the shoulders of a bodiless figure.
After exploring the Jewish Quarter, you can walk to Krcma for lunch. It’s a traditional Czech restaurant just around the corner from the “Statue of Franz Kafka”.
Czech cuisine is heavy on roasted meat and dumplings which is exactly what you’ll find at Krcma. It’s a dark brick and wood restaurant located in the basement of a building, giving it a medieval Game-of-Thrones-like feel.
One of Krcma’s specialties is roasted pork back knee which they serve in hefty 1.2 kg portions. I wanted to get that but I was here alone so I went with this pork roast with bread dumplings and red cabbage instead.
Address: 4, Kostečná 925, 110 00 Josefov, Czechia
Operating Hours: 11AM-11PM, Mon-Sat / 12NN-11PM, Sun
What to Order: Roasted pork back knee
Expect to Spend: About CZK 200-250 per person
Municipal Library of Prague
The Municipal Library of Prague is one of the largest libraries in the city. There’s an art gallery on the second floor but most tourists come just to take selfies inside this tower of books.
Located on the first floor of the library, it’s a column of books that go from the floor to the ceiling. Mirrors on the floor and ceiling inside the column create the illusion of infinity.
Operating Hours: 10AM-6PM, Tue-Sun (closed Mondays)
Admission: CZK 120 (art gallery), FREE (book tower)
Estimated Time to Spend: About 15 mins
Old Town Square
This historic square is the the heart of the Old Town. It’s where you’ll find many of Prague’s most eye-catching structures like the Church of Our Lady before Tyn, St. Nicholas Church, and the Old Town Hall with its medieval Astronomical Clock.
This square is one of the busiest areas in Prague and where you’ll find plenty of restaurants, outdoor cafes, and food and beer stalls. The Church of Our Lady before Tyn – a Gothic church with twin towers reaching 80 meters high (272 ft) – is one of the most remarkable sights you’ll find in Prague.
The Old Town Hall is a complex of several ancient houses in the Old Town Square, with its most famous feature being Orloj or the Prague Astronomical Clock. It was installed in 1410, making it the oldest working astronomical clock in the world.
Every hour, a procession of the twelve apostles and other moving figures is set in motion. The twelve apostles reveal themselves through the doorways above the clock while the skeletal figure representing death rings the bell.
Man Hanging Out
Unless you know where to look up, then you may miss this sculpture by David Cerny. He’s a Czech artist who’s made a name for himself creating provocative and often controversial sculptures in public spaces.
This sculpture called “Man Hanging Out” depicts Sigmund Freud dangling by one arm over Husova Street in the Old Town. It’s one of nine Cerny sculptures I sought out in Prague, which I offer as an option on your third day in the city.
Franz Kafka’s Head
About a 5-minute walk south of “Man Hanging Out” is another Cerny creation, this time a kinetic bust of Franz Kafka.
Standing 11 meters tall (36 ft), it’s a mirrored sculpture made up of 42 perpetually rotating panels. They pause for a few moments to reveal the author’s head before shifting again.
This unusual building is located a little over a kilometer south of “Franz Kafka’s Head”, so you can skip it if you don’t have an interest in architecture. If you do, then you probably know that it was designed by Franck Gehry in collaboration with Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunic.
Called the Dancing House, this deconstructivist building was inspired by famous dancers Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, and is sometimes referred to as “Fred and Ginger”. It contains mostly office spaces but it does have a restaurant, an art gallery, and a bar with a rooftop terrace.
You can purchase tickets to the art gallery at the gate or get it in advance through Get Your Guide. Your ticket will include access to the rooftop terrace.
Operating Hours: 9AM-8PM, daily
Admission: CZK 190 (art gallery)
Estimated Time to Spend: About 1 hr
If you don’t mind taking the tram back to the Josefov / Old Town area, then I recommend having dinner at U Parlamentu. Like Krcma, they serve traditional Czech food, though in a more modern setting.
Pictured below was my tasty grilled pork chop served with golden chanterelle sauce and a side of buttery spaetzle. U Parlamentu is a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence awardee with a near-perfect 4.5-star rating. It’s a popular place so you may have to wait a bit for a table.
Address: Valentinská 52, 110 00 Staré Město, Czechia
Operating Hours: 11AM-11PM, daily
What to Order: Grilled pork chop, roast rabbit
Expect to Spend: About CZK 250-350 per person
If you’re in the mood for a nightcap before calling it a day, then you can walk to Absintherie which is about 500 meters south of U Parlamentu. It’s a popular bar that offers over a hundred different types of absinthe.
Absinthe is a potent spirit derived from anise, fennel, wormwood, and other medicinal and culinary herbs. It’s typically green in color and reported to have hallucinogenic properties, though I think much of that is exaggerated.
Address: Jilská 7, 110 00 Staré Město, Czechia
Operating Hours: 12NN-12MN, daily
What to Order: Distilled absinthe
Expect to Spend: About CZK 150-200 for absinthe
Your second day in Prague will be your busiest so I suggest starting early, around 8AM if possible.
Prague is a city of trams. With 500 km of track servicing the city, they’re a convenient and scenic form of transportation.
One of the most scenic lines is Tram 22. It goes through key landmarks and neighborhoods in Nove Mesto (New Town) and Mala Strana (Lesser Town) en route to Hradcany (Castle District).
We boarded the tram in Namesti Miru (Peace Square) and took it all the way to Prague Castle, but if you’d like to stop for breakfast, then I recommend getting off at Ujezd which is the first tram stop after crossing Most Legii (Legion Bridge).
Tram Fare: CZK 24 (30-min), CZK 32 (90-min), CZK 110 (24-hr)
A 2-minute walk from Ujezd tram stop is Cafe Savoy, a beautiful neo-renaissance cafe that’s been open since the late 19th century.
I was here to try vetrnik, a type of caramel-glazed chou pastry that many feel is the best pastry you can have in Prague, but Cafe Savoy is also known for being one of the best places to have breakfast in the city.
Address: Vítězná 124/5, Vítězná 5, 150 00 Praha, Czechia
Operating Hours: 9AM-7PM, daily
What to Order: Vetrnik, breakfast
Expect to Spend: About CZK 183 for vetrnik and coffee
After breakfast, you can reboard Tram 22 at Ujezd and make your way to Prague Castle, the city’s most popular attraction.
Many tourists get off at Prazsky hrad but this entails a tiring uphill climb to the castle. Instead, I suggest getting off two stops later at Pohorelec. From there, it’s a pleasant 15-minute downhill walk to the castle.
Prague Castle is recognized by the Guinness Book of Records as the largest ancient castle in the world, occupying an area of almost 70,000 square meters (750,000 square feet). It’s home to some of the country’s greatest cultural treasures and serves as the official office of Czechia’s president.
There are multiple galleries and exhibits you can visit but if you’re interested only in the main structures likes the Old Royal Palace and St. Vitus Cahetdral, then admission is CZK 250. You can refer to the Prague Castle website for ticketing information.
Operating Hours: 9AM-5PM, daily (summer) / 9AM-4PM, daily (winter)
Admission: At least CZK 250
Estimated Time to Spend: About 2-3 hrs
Old Royal Palace
The Old Royal Palace is one of the oldest structures in Prague Castle. Dating back to the 12th century, it was originally used only by Czech princesses but it did serve as the king’s palace between the 13th and 16th centuries.
Among the palace’s most notable features include Vadislav Hall (pictured below) and the Bohemian Chancellery.
St. Vitus Cathedral
St. Vitus Cathedral is the largest and most important church in Czechia. Built in the Gothic style, it was constructed over a period of almost 600 years and houses the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors.
St. Vitus Cathedral is the focal point of Prague Castle and by far its most impressive structure. You’ll be spending most of your time here.
Just outside St. Vitus Cathedral is a courtyard with multiple food and beer stalls. It’s a great place to spend a few moments drinking lager and taking in the grandness of the cathedral.
Golden Lane is a picturesque street known for its tiny colorful houses. They were originally built in the 16th century to house the castle’s guards, but they were later used by goldsmiths which is how the street got its name.
A few artists lived in Golden Lane in the 19th and early 20th centuries, including Franz Kafka who resided in house number 22. Today, many of the houses have been converted into souvenir shops and museums.
After exploring the Castle District, make your way to Wallenstein Garden in Lesser Town. Located about a 10-15 minute walk south of Golden Lane, it’s a 17th century baroque garden situated on the grounds of Wallenstein Palace.
This 1.7 hectare manicured garden features shaped hedges, a grotto, a large ornamental pond with koi, an aviary, and free-roaming peacocks. Entrance to the garden is free, making it a good stop en route to other points of interest in Mala Strana.
Operating Hours: 7:30AM-6PM, Mon-Fri / 10AM-6PM, Sat-Sun (Apr-Oct only)
Estimated Time to Spend: About 30 mins
U Tri jelinku
We were supposed to have lunch here but plans changed and we never made it, but I read that U Tri jelinku is a good place to have Czech food. According to Google Maps, it’s about a 7-minute walk from Wallenstein Garden.
U Tri jelinku is a Czech restaurant that serves a range of cuisine, from traditional Czech to pasta to burgers and steak. They’re a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence awardee with a near-perfect 4.5-star rating.
I read that they serve good kulajda which is a traditional Czech soup made with cream, mushroom, potato, egg, and dill. We were also planning on having the smazeny syr which is a Czezh fried cheese served with tartar sauce. You can check the full menu on their website.
Address: Nerudova 206/4, 118 00 Malá Strana, Czechia
Operating Hours: 9AM-11PM, daily
Expect to Spend: About CZK 250 per entree
Infant Jesus of Prague
After lunch, you can make the 5-minute walk to the Church of Our Lady Victorious to see the Infant Jesus of Prague, a 16th-century wooden statue of the child Jesus. Its exact origin is unknown but legends claim that it once belonged to Saint Teresa of Avila.
The statue had been forgotten for many years and had its hands broken off, before it was rediscovered in the 17th century by a Carmelite priest who placed it in the church’s oratory.
According to the priest, he heard a voice speak to him while praying to the statue. It said: “Have pity on me, and I will have pity on you. Give me my hands, and I will give you peace. The more you honour me, the more I will bless you.”
Since then, the statue has drawn thousands of devotees from around the world. Many claims of blessings and miraculous healings have been attributed to the statue.
Operating Hours: 8:30AM-7PM, Mon-Sat / 8:30AM-8PM, Sunday
Estimated Time to Spend: About 30 mins
John Lennon Wall
About a 4-minute walk from the Church of Our Lady Victorious is this wall dedicated to John Lennon.
After his murder in 1980, John Lennon became a pacifist hero to many of Czechia’s youth. His image was painted on this wall along with political graffiti and Beatles lyrics.
The wall would be whitewashed multiple times over the years only to be painted on again. It would happen over and over, leading the authorities to give up and letting the wall be.
Today, it’s an ever-evolving canvas of political messages aimed at Czechia’s residing crop of politicians.
Operating Hours: 24 hrs
Estimated Time to Spend: About 15 mins
The Narrowest Street in Prague
About a 5-minute walk from the John Lennon Wall is the narrowest street in Prague, or should I say it’s most clever marketing gimmick? I was excited to see this street until I learned that it wasn’t a street at all, but a flight of steps to a tourist trap.
No more than 50 cm wide, what made this nondescript stairwell a popular tourist attraction was the addition of walk signals. The stairwell is too narrow for two people to get through so you’ll need to press a button to get a green light. Well played.
At the end of the short flight of steps is a restaurant with the worst rating I’ve ever seen on TripAdvisor. Turn around and avoid like the plague.
Operating Hours: 24 hrs
Estimated Time to Spend: About 15 mins
Franza Kafka Museum
Less than 50 meters away from the narrowest street in Prague is the Franz Kafka Museum. Fans of the author can visit the museum but I was here specifically to see this kinetic sculpture by David Cerny.
Titled “Piss”, it depicts two urinating men cast in bronze. Their pelvises gyrate and their penises bob up and down while releasing a stream of water into a shallow pool shaped like Czechia.
Interestingly, what looks like random peeing is actually the sculptures “writing” Czech literary quotes into the water.
Operating Hours: 24 hrs
Estimated Time to Spend: About 15 mins
After exploring the Lesser Town, cross over into the Old Town on what has to be one of the prettiest pedestrian bridges in the world – Charles Bridge.
Measuring 516 meters long (1,693 ft), Charles Bridge is decorated by thirty baroque-style statues of saints and patron saints on either side.
Charles Bridge is popular so it won’t look like this by the time you get there. If you don’t mind waking up early, then it’s best to come back the next day at sunrise. That’s about the only time you’ll see it empty like this.
You’ve spent an entire day walking so why not reward yourself with a beer? And not just one beer, but a flight of six beers.
Beer flights are a popular way of enjoying beer in Prague. Four to eight types of beer are served in small 3-5 oz glasses. You choose whatever beers you want and they’ll serve them to you on a wooden board called a beer flight paddle.
Bars that offer beer flights have dozens to choose from. U Kunstatu in the Old Town offers over a hundred beers on tap, neatly organized in categories like light lager, stout, porter, and sour beer.
U Kunstatu is a great place to unwind and enjoy the magic of Czech beer after a day of sightseeing. If you’d like to go on a beer tour, then there are several you can choose from on Get Your Guide and Klook.
U Kunstatu offers a few dishes on their menu to enjoy with your flight of beer. One of the dishes we had was this tasty deer sausage served with bread, gherkins, pearl onions, horseradish, and mustard. Na zdravi!
Address: Řetězová 222 3, 110 00 Staré Město, Czechia
Operating Hours: 11AM-8PM, daily
What to Order: Beer flights, sausages
Expect to Spend: About CZK 350 for a flight of 6 beers
For your third day in Prague, I suggest going on a day trip to Kutna Hora or doing a DIY tour of David Cerny’s most prominent sculptures. I did the latter and saw nine of the artist’s works in one day.
OPTION 1: Day Trip to Kutna Hora
There are a few interesting day trips you can make from Prague, but one of the easiest is to Kutna Hora, a prominent silver mining town in medieval Bohemia. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was once the second most important town of the Bohemian Kingdom after Prague.
Kutna Hora boasts a few interesting attractions like St. Barbara’s Church and Sedlec Ossuary (pictured below), a unique church adorned with 40,000-70,000 real human bones.
You can visit Kutna Hora by train from Prague’s main railway station. The journey takes about 1 hr 15 mins and costs around CZK 100 each way. Alternatively, you can book a guided tour with transportation through Get Your Guide.
OPTION 2: David Cerny DIY Tour
As described, David Cerny is one of Prague’s most prominent contemporary artists. He first gained notoriety in 1991 when he painted an important Soviet memorial tank pink and erected a large obscene finger on its turret. He’s been doing much of the same ever since.
Pictured below is a piece called “Brown-Nosers”. It consists of two giant fiberglass sculptures with ladders leading up to their anuses. There’s a video playing inside.
Many of Cerny’s sculptures are in the Old Town, New Town, and Lesser Town, but there are a few that are farther away, including “Brown-Nosers”. You’ll need at least half a day to see all nine. You can refer to my article on David Cerny’s sculptures in Prague for more information.
Check out the map below to help you understand where these attractions are in relation to one another. Click on the link to open an interactive version of the map in a new window.
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